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Pumori Expedition

Pumori Expedition

Pumori Expedition starts at 5,300m. In a beautiful base camp aside a small lake (water source, take water filters or barrels were you can pack your equipment and to clarification the water -let sand to drop all night-). From base camp you have the most wonderful sight of Mt. Everest Expedition you can imagine, just above is Kalapattar Rock hill at 5545m.

After a 3 hrs walk (loaded) trough an easy hike terrain you will reach camp 1 or advanced base camp 5700m. To let your equipment and supply nearby. After this you will face a 500m. Elevation difference trough a 40 to 65 degrees slopes, 100m. Horizontal traverse, steep and expose to wind narrow ridges, some 5m. Ice wall, one tunnel Climb in Pumori has many rock and mixed climb (not to need rock pitons but take some in case for the fixed rope) and spring might be more rock falling. If you have good Sherpa, Could be good for spring season.

Camp 2- 6200m. Is located on a narrow ridge at the end of the section described before. Expose to wind and far from avalanches (but people say it has happened before that avalanches reach camp 2) the next 400m. Is an ice climb with 35-65 degrees, more 5m. Ice walls, many crevasses, and the bigger avalanche danger from big Seracs hanging from the shoulder 6500m.The shoulder can be camp 3, but is too windy and not much gain. From here you cans see Tibet. After this it is presume that the rest is a wide ridge that takes you to a not hidden summit, but like I told you, You still need rope here because of many crevasses, Ice walls. 

Finally, at 6,850m, there is an enormous crevasse 200m large, 40m. Deep, 10-20m wide. Try to walk towards Tibet side were the crevasses ended just before a great cliff, but in the other side the snow two-layer difference for valance danger. You can try Nepal side and you can reach the beautiful famous Pumori cliff and crossed the crevasse. After this the walk to the summit is only walk and you can summit Pumori 7145m. 

Normal route : This is the easiest route to climb this peak and most of the expedition climbed this peak so far have used this route. As you know Pumori is not easy as like other mountains, there are technical parts in this route as well. We suggest you, you have take climbing Sherpa and who will take to Summit. We can arrange for you Summiter Sherpas for the Pumori, if you have required.

You need to have at least 3 camps after base camp to reach the summit. The base camp is just above Gorekshep at the altitude of 5300m. After base camp, you can set up first camp at the altitude of 5,650m. Around the phase of Pumori.

We set second camp at the ridge after the phase at the altitude of 6,000m. The most technical part for this peak is around camp 1 and 2. We set camp third at the altitude of 6,480m. Around the corner after the ridge.

We/you can summit from the third camp to the top. This route has been used by former expedition to Pumori in every year.South-West Ridge : Only few climbers tried this route, as this is one of the most difficult routes. This route follows directly from the top of Kalapatar and goes straight over the ridge nearly 75 Degree. As this route has lots of technical, I recommend you to use the normal route for the Pumori and you and your group will reach the Top. If you need more information please check Himalayan Journal 1996 or American Alpine Journal 1997. In this book written by Climber of Pumori who have been summit. They Submitted by normal route.

Trip Gallery

Pumori Expedition Pumori Expedition

Trip Itinerary

Day 01 : Arrival Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 02-04 : Kathmandu.
Day 05 : Early morning fly to Lukla. Trek to Phakding.
Day 06 : Trek to Namche Bazaar. 
Day 07 : Rest day at Namche Bazaar.
Day 08 : Trek to Tengboche.
Day 09 : Trek to Dingboche.
Day 10 : Trek to Lobuche
Day 11 : Trek to Pumori Base Camp.
Day 12 : Base Camp Preparation
Day 13-28 : Climbing period
Day 29-34 : Retrace to Lukla via Pangboche.
Day 35 : Fly from Luklat to Kathmandu. Check into hotel.
Day 36 : Free at Kathmandu.
Day 37 : Departure to Airport.

Cost Details

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Cost Includes

  • Twin-sharing accommodation on B/B basis in Kathmandu as per itinerary.
  • Food during the trek and base camp for member and staffs.
  • Camp or tea houses stay during the trek.
  • Camping equipment at Base camp (tents,mattress, dining tents, store tent, chair table).
  • Guide, Cook and Kitchen boy in Base camp.
  • Above mentioned staff daily wages, equipment allowance and insurance.
  • Poter Duing the trip up to base camp and return to Lukla.
  • Government Liasion Officer.
  • Peak Permit charges and National Park fees.
  • Flight KTM- LUKLA - KTM for members and staff.
  • Cargo of gear to Lukla - KTM.
  • Land transport as per itinerary.

Cost Excludes

  • Personal equipment for climbing and Insurance.
  • High altitude food, fuel and equipment.
  • Climbing Sherpa.
  • Meals in Kathmandu.
  • Airport taxes.
  • All kind of personal nature expenses such as liquor, tips etc, Emergency rescue Evacuation, if required.
  • Wake-Talkie

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