Makalu Expedition is the world’s fifth highest peak. Its height is 27,765 feet from the sea level. This beautiful mountain lies in the 14 miles east of Everest in the Khumbu region. The size of this splendid mountain is gorgeous and its pyramid-like structure with sharp four ridges has made it more spectacular. This peak is indeed a double peak. The subsidiary peak stands just north of the main summit which is linked by a saddle named Chomolonzo. The ridge of the summit has drawn the demarcation line indicating the boarder between Nepal and Tibet.
The name of this mountain is probably taken from a Sanskrit word Mahakala which means a Shiva, one of the god of Hindu religion. Shiva is some times an evil, cruel destroyer and other times he is apt to be gentle and kind hearted. This mountain is also called Kumba Karna in a local dialect. It means the giant in fact.
Before its first ascent in 1955, several expedition teams studied and admired this peak. Nevertheless, it was not attempted until the first ascend of Mt. Everest in 1954. Other giant peaks in the Khumbu region were also not attempted till that time.
Mt. Makalu Expedition West Face
For climbing, this route is said to be very dangerous and risky. Five attempts were made before the successful climbing of this mountain. In fact, they succeed in the 5th attempt.
The Russian team led by Sergey Efimov climbed this summit successful first time in 1997. They climbed it through west face. They had climbed this peak through the most difficult route. The ending part of the route goes towards Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline climbed Mt. Makalu and thus they were rewarded by the award “Gold ice axe.”
The routes are of 4 parts :
From the base camp of the west face, the button part starts and then we continue the climbing through the hanging ice fall at the height of 6100m to the right side of the ice fall. The second part broadens from the plateau above the ice fall along the 35 to 45 elevation. The next section consists of ice rock walls in the 50 to 55 degree steep and that extends in the height of 7400m’ height. The final section begins with the 70 to 75 degree elevation rock pillar. The pillar leads the west ridge at the height of 8000m and up to the top of the summit.
We fix the typical ropes from 5800m to 6100m and from 6500m to 7500m. You see the camp established by the Russian expedition in the following location.
The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7,600m in the area of the Seignior Wall.
The first US team to summit was in 1980, they summit via this West Pillar Route . The team was made up of Jim States , John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They summit 2 members of the team and put 2 members within 150 feet. They summit without the use of oxygen or Sherpa support.
Highlight sights of Makalu Expedition :
Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8516m, Makalu I 8463m, Makalu II 7660m, Peak 38- 7591m, Pumori, Lhotse Shar 8410m, Barunste 7145m, Chamlan 7319m, Kanchanjung 8586m, Jannu Himal 7710m and More attractive snow caped peaks etc.
Day 01 : Arrive in Kathmandu, Transfer to Hotel
Day 02 : Sight seeing Kathmandu
AM : Guided visit of Kathmandu City and Swayambhunath.
PM : Guided visit of Boudhanath Stupa and Pashupatinath
Day 03 : Kathmandu to Tumlingtar over Overnight in lodge
Day 04 : Tumlingtar to Manybhanjyang (1100m) 5:30hrs over night Camp
Day 05 : Manybhanjyang to Chichila (1700m) 6 hrs overnight Camp
Day 06 : Chichila to Num (1600m) 7 hrs overnight in Camp
Day 07 : Num to Seduwa (1560m) 7 hrs overnight in Camp
Day 08 : Seduwa to Tashi Gaun 4 hrs Overnight in Camp
Day 09 : Rest day for acclimatization. Overnight in Camp
Day 10 : Tashi Gaun to Khongba-La (3760m) 6 to 7 hrs overnight in Camp
Day 11 : Khongba-La to Dobato (3700m) 6 to 7 hrs overnight in Camp
Day 12 : Dobato to Nebe Kharka (4320m) 7 hrs overnight in Camp
Day 13 : Nebe Kharka to Sherson (4630m) 7 hrs Overnight in Camp
Day 14 : Sherson to Makalu base camp 6 to 7 hrs Overnight in Camp
Day 15 : Makalu base camp to higher camp 2 hrs Overnight in Camp
Day 19-49 : Climbing Period Mt. Makalu (8463m)
Day 50 : Cleaning up Base Camp overnight Camp
Day 51 : Higher camp to Yak Kharka overnight Camp
Day 52 : Yak Kharka to Mumbuk overnight Camp
Day 53 : Mumbuk.to Tashi Goan overnight Camp
Day 54 : Tashi Goan to Num overnight Camp
Day 55 : Num to Chichira
Day 56 : Chichila to Tumlingtar overnight Lodge
Day 57 : Tumlingtar over night
Day 58 : Flight from Tumlingtar to Kathmandu and transfer to Hotel
Day 59 : Rest day in Kathmandu and farewell Diner
Day 60 : Transfer to International Airport and fly home
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